Concierge Corner: Amarena

Catch me schlepping to the UES whenever I'm craving Italian food.

Yesterday evening, I hauled ass from Williamsburg to the Upper East Side in an attempt to make an 8:30 reservation at Amarena. I arrived 15 minutes late (shocker!!!), but I didn’t feel as bad upon arrival seeing my friends seated with dirty martinis in hand. Now that’s excellent service.

Set within what seems to be a converted brownstone, the entrance to the bi-level eatery–illuminated by an awning stringed with fairy lights–is tucked away along East 86th Street. Everything at Amarena evokes summer on the Amalfi Coast. The lower level is reminiscent of a beach club with sandy hues and a marble bar with rings like wave peaks on the ocean.

If you had a glamorous Italian aunt, the upper level would be similar to her formal dining room: banquettes draped with deep red velvet, marble two- and four-top tables set with Ginori 1735 plates, wood paneling, and an ornate light fixture over the banquet table for large groups. Scenes of Southern Italian beaches and their surrounding winding streets retouched with pink and red tones line the walls.

Once our waiter Entony had us settled with our first round of drinks, he led us through the lengthy menu with the brutally honest precision only a true Italian can master. Here’s how we fared:

Arancini alla zucca ($28 for 2)

While pumpkin risotto doesn’t exactly scream spring, the sweetness coupled with the indulgence of shaved parmigiano reggiano and Camp Ossetra Caviar make these arancini a must no matter the season.

Carciofi alla giudea ($26)

When in Rome, I always love artichokes. When in America, not as much…they’re usually fried to fibrous nothingness. These are divine, with a meaty stem and perfectly crispy leaves. The Calabrian chili-Meyer lemon aioli is a delicious enhancement.

Polipo ($28)

Since embarking on a trip to Greece together last October, my friend Thalia and I are obliged to order octopus wherever we go. Here, a singular meaty tendon is grilled and placed atop a bed of Japanese eggplant-cherry tomato fonduta with basil gremolata.

Carpaccio di Manzo ($35)

If there’s a carpaccio, you can bet I’m ordering it (as will my friend Emma, just one reason why I love her!)

It’s perhaps worth noting that after this course, we switched up our beverages. Emma and I switched to wine (a Barolo from Piemonte for her, and a minerally white from Campania for me), and Thalia and Britney opted for a cocktail. Saluti!

Campanelle alla vodka ($29)

Geno, my friend Britney’s boyfriend, recently shared with her a roundup of the best vodka pasta in New York City. Amarena made the cut, which was no surprise after trying it ourselves. I don’t usually go crazy for vodka sauce, but the campanelle was a welcomed departure from the typical shapes, and the sauce boasts an ideal tomato-to-cream ratio.

Every Day Sunday Gravy ($35)

We almost made it through this meal without a dud. On paper, the components of this pasta sounded great: pappardelle, Brunello coffee-braised beef cheeks, slow-cooked tomato sugo, and parmigiano reggiano. However, the pasta was just too thin for the thickness of the sauce. (*Do note that anything next to the campanelle alla vodka has some serious stacking up to do.)

Branzino alla caponata ($40)

The Branzino is prepared delicately with lemon and olive oil. It also happens to be the perfect vessel for the Japanese eggplant-cherry tomato fonduta, which made another appearance, this time with the addition of pine nuts and capers.

Torta al limone ($17)

We initially wanted to order the namesake black sour cherry dessert, but were told to skip it for the torta al limone instead. I’ll forever be grateful for that advice. This Meyer lemon olive oil-pistachio cake with limoncello frosting is truly something special.

Cioccolato ($17)

It should be illegal to not order chocolate for dessert. Heavenly and decadent beyond belief, each slice of this cake is layered with chocolate ganache and served with a side of mascarpone crema.

Ci sentiamo presto, amanti! <3